US karats Percent of Gold Europe Fineness
24 100% 1000
22 95.83% 958
18 75% 750
15 62.50% 625
14 58.33% 583
10 41.67% 417
9 37.50% 375
a carat is about 0.2 grams or about .007 ounces
"
Sterling" Silver is .925 fine. In the US we simply mark it "sterling". Europe marks sterling silver with a lion or a leopard. The lion is the hallmark for
Birmingham, England. Items made of sterling get more beautiful as they are used or worn. With use, tiny scratches known as patina develop, giving the silver a warm, soft look. Only gold and platinum are more durable than silver, so do not be afraid to wear it.
950 or "plat" on light silvery metal is platinum
20 pennyweights = one ounce
Jewelry History
Georgian c1714 - 1830
*prepared by hand
*use of artificial substances began in this period such as:
rhinestones & pastes (usually had foil backs) instead of diamonds
pinch beck (copper & zinc alloy) instead of gold
cut steel & marcasite instead of silver
*diamonds or subs were commonly rose cuts or flat
Victorian c1837-1901
*power-driven machines
*jewelry available for everyone, not just nobility
Image via Wikipedia*lucky charms symbols, hearts, flowers, birds, ivy, love knots, angels, babies, serpents
*jet, coral, human hair and seed pearls were all popular organic materials used
*mourning or memorial jewelry had been popular for decades prior to Victoria's ascension to the throne, upon the death of Prince Albert, the entire British empire was thrown into 40 years of enforced gloom
*cameos, tiaras, lavalieres
Arts and Crafts c1890-1914
Edwardian c1901-1914
*lace translated into platinm and diamonds - is the phrase used to describe Edwardian jewelry
*sometimes lost or forgotten, sandwiched between two great periods, that being
Art Nouveau and
Art Deco
*jewelry of high society
*diamonds and platinum were essential in the development of an Edwardian piece of jewelry
*among the finest jewelry ever made
*"Negligee" pendant - two drops of unequal length hanging from a single stone or a thin chain
*"sautior" a long necklace consisting of pearls or a fine chain ending in a tassel, was made popular during the period
Art Nouveau c1895-1915
*romantic "handcraft" movement
*influenced by
Gothic Art Japanese Art
*dreamlike faces & figures, moons, moon like stones such as opals, pearls and moonstones
vines, flowers, peacocks, dragonflies, orchids, lilies and ferns
*enameling & iridescence were popular
*materials used were tortoiseshell, copper, ivory, horn, carved glass & shells
*delicate filigree settings
*pastel colors
Art Deco c1920-1935
*log pendants, bangle bracelets, cocktail rings
*after
WWI the style changed to geometric, bold, sophisticated & architectural designs
*curves replaced by straight lines with chunky angular simplicity
*also used circles, cones & cylinders
*influenced by
Russian ballet, Expressionism, Egyptian and Aztec art
*falcons, vultures & scarab motifs
*lapis lazuli & carnelian
*revived in 1960's
*semiprecious stones & precious gems were used together
Retro c1935-1955
Contemporary c1945-present
*after WWII new fluid, sculptured look
*from beautiful to garish
*hollywood stars became the trendsetters
*from the mid 1930's until the late 1940's became bigger and bolder than ever before with gemstones well over 100 carats, aquamarine, citrine, topaz, and synthetics became ever more popular
*silk knots reintroduced
*precious metal, enamel, gemstones
*tailored styles in the 1950's and 60's
*button covers introduced in 1970's
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