lil' bits of this-n-that: Used Car Buying Checklist

If you are any thing like me you don't have a clue what to check for when buying a used car. The people you do know that might be able to help usually aren't available or have enough time to devote to your cause. Using this checklist will help in not getting stuck with a total clunker. If you find something you are considering to buy then you can get a second opinion from your expert. I bet they will be impressed by your choice. Here's your list. All I ask for this invaluable information is some feed back. Come back and post your success story in a comment.

Inspect the car first thing in the morning-after it has sat t that location overnight (as opposed to having been driven to a different location). This will allow you to check under the chassis for leaked fluids.
Arrive at least 15 minutes before the designated meeting time to ensure the owner isn't "prepping" the car by taking special measures to hide problems.
When you start the car, have a friend (could have the owner do it) stand off to one side to check the tailpipe for signs of smoke. White smoke often results from water or antifreeze entering the cylinders (the white smoke is steam). It could suggest the engine will overheat. Blue smoke is caused by engine oil entering the cylinders and may suggest failed gaskets or o-rings. Black smoke, typically the least problematic, usually means excess fuel is entering the engine's cylinders. It may signal problems with the carburetor, the fuel pump, the fuel injector, or the computer sensors.
When you take a test drive, head for the highway with a solid side wall, jersey wall, or median barrier. This gives you a chance to roll down the window-with the stereo off-and listen for any noises echoing off that hard surface. Ideally, you should hear nothing more than the sound of the car's tires on the road.
Check the car body for straight and even seams in the doors, hood, and trunk; deviations could betray a previous wreck. Place a magnet over a piece of cloth and gently drag it along each steel body panel; if it won't adhere in certain places, that indicates a putty "body" filler was used for a repair. Check the underside of both the hood and the trunk to make sure the paint color is consistent with the rest of the body.
Examine tires for even wear and uniform size and manufacturer, is the spare tire properly inflated? If not, the seller may have been a neglectful owner.
Bounce each corner of the car; it should rock only once or twice before coming to a stop.
Check the interior carpeting for signs of water damage or excessive wear (compare that to the mileage). Pay special attention to the carpeting just beneath the dashboard; stains there may indicate a leaky heater or air conditioner.
Be leery of new carpeting, which is typically replaced to hide water stains or remove musty smells (like from a hurricane or flood). Existing carpet stains are likewise a red flag.
Make sure engine wires bend easily; if they're stiff, they will likely crack.
Repeatedly test electrical equipment such as wipers, lights, turn signals, and the heater and air conditioner.
Check dashboard gauges for accuracy and water condensation.
Examine engine crevices, the glove compartment, the wheel well for the spare tire, and beneath the seats for water lines or signs of mud, silt, or rust.
Before you buy, write down the VIN from the doorjamb sticker. Then access carfax. A single report can be purchased for about $20; shell out $5 more and you get unlimited reports for a 30-day period, allowing you to track other vehicles as well. More dealers now provide a vehicle's Carfax history, at their cost, to customers who request it.
If all else fells and you are just not comfortable buying on your own. You could hire a car inspector. To find a reputable car inspector near you, consult the Yellow Pages or a website such as carchex or automobileinspections. Expect to pay $50 to $100.